Day 13 Galway to Dublin

Today was mostly a travel day, but we managed to cram quite a bit in. We stayed off the main road all the way to Dublin, taking back roads when we could find our way! Our first unusual sighting was in a small village called Ballymore. First we saw hundreds of cars parked on the narrow streets. Then we approached a large cathedral. I was thinking that maybe a wedding was taking place. Not so. Turned out to be a funeral procession. We immediately pulled over out of respect. The pallbearers carried the coffin on their shoulders, with their inside arms linked around each other's shoulders. It was quite a sight, but a bit sad as well.
Next unusual thing we found is shown in the following photo in a town called Killare.

We turned around (and that isn't easy!) to see what it was. Of course it was written in Gaelic. We drove up the narrow road, and saw the sign, "Hill of Uisneach, site of Celtic festival of Bealtaine, ancient place of assembly. St. Patrick's church, sacred center of Ireland in Pagan times. Site of Druidic fire cult, seat of High Kings". Pretty mystifying, huh? So I googled it when we arrived at our hotel room. It was the seat of the high Kings of Meath.  Its history is rooted in the Iron Age. St. Patrick and St. Brigid have important connections with the Hill, it being claimed that it was here St. Brigid received the veil from St. Patrick. Funny, but so many places in Ireland are connected to St. Patrick...wonder how much of that is a wannabe? There are a large number of monuments – almost twenty – mostly ring forts and tumuli which are scattered around and upon it.The sad thing is that it is all on private land, and we couldn't see any of it!

Next stop was Trim to see the Castle Trim. Great stop! I thought I was almost "castled" out, but this one was presented in a wonderful way. The land was first granted to Hugh de Lacy an Anglo-Norman. I think he is one of my ancestors, if I remember correctly.  He built first a wooden structure on the spot, but when the natives burned it to the ground, he built the present structure. Learned some interesting things about early "castle life". Now remember, this is the Irish telling these stories...I'll let you make you own mind up if they are true or not. To protect the keep the waste from a nearby Lepers colony was thrown into the river Lep to keep enemies from crossing the river. The castle had large vats near the roof to collect rain water. Enemies would kill small animals, let them "ripen" for a few days and then try to catapult them into the water supply! Clever, huh! There were wooden battlements built around several sides of the castle, looking like small rooms sticking out of the castle walls. These battlements all had trap doors where the guards would drop either, hot oil, ashes, or even human waster on the enemies below. We also saw a true to life castle toilet! Now this story is really good! Because these people did not have very clean bathing habits, they carried all kinds of bugs.  There were actually people whose job was to pick the bugs out of the clothes of the gentry....thus the term we use today, "nitpickers"! Now to how the toilet is involved in this! The waste drained out of the room, down the side of the castle and into a large vat. There was a much desired position called the "gong farmer".  His job was to stir the vat of poop, causing the gases to rise back through the toilet hole. The people of the castle would hang their clothing over the opening and the gases would fumigate their clothes. You be the judge...True or False? The following must be true?? Part of "Braveheart" was filmed here. Actually our guide said much of it, so who knows? We saw the actual window where Longshanks threw out the boy...remember that? We also saw where Mel was stretched, disemboweled and quartered!
Right across the street was this pub...quite a coincidence.

This is how Phil's ancestors originally spelled the surname. We went in and I asked the barkeep how this pub got its name. He replied, a little on the sour side, "From its owner". I asked if he was anywhere around. He said, "You are lookin' at 'em". By the time we left we were all best buds, but from what we could get out of him he is probably not Phil's McCormick! It gave us a thrill for awhile, anyway!
A few last thoughts as we are flying out early tomorrow morning.
What the beautiful Emerald Isle has:
abandoned castles, monasterys, and cathedrals. Ruins that date back to the Stone age and every century since then. Gardens deluxe. Colors of green you can't even imagine! Irish coffee, yum! Friendly, hospitable, life-loving people. Megalithic tombs. A rich history of Famine, Revolution, Customs, Storytelling, and Traditions. Moms are always out strolling their babies. The cities are clean, freshly painted and flowers are abundant. Ireland also has an average of 250 days of rain...we only saw 1!
Ireland does NOT have: Pick up trucks. Good highway markings. The ability to give good directions to lost travelers!
But all in all, I have fallen in love with this Emerald Isle, and plan to remain so!

"An rud a lionas an tsuil lionann se an croi"

"What fills the eye, fills the heart"

So long from the Emerald Isle...this old gal is coming home!

Day 12 Galway

Oscar Wilde and I have become great friends! Have you googled him yet? interesting fella, and his one-liners are classic! 
This morning we took to the streets of Galway, parking the car and walking. Parking is interesting. When you park, you must look for a nearby sign that says you need a ticket. Then, you must locate a ticket box, somewhere in the vicinity. There, you purchase a ticket for the amount of time you want to park. Actually a good idea, but confusing to us foreigners! We finally got the hang of it, and our car did not get booted! We walked down the streets that are marked for pedestrians only! Nice shops, pubs, and restuarants. Flowers are hanging everywhere with almost every window having a window box. Just lovely! Love this Emerald Isle and its flowers!

Our first stop was to find Lynch's Castle. Disappointment! It is now a bank and not much to see of a castle but a facade! Took a photo anyway, but won't waste room here.

Next we went to St. Nicholas' Cathedral. The Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas is the largest medieval parish church in Ireland. The church was founded in 1320 and is still used today. Rumor has it (and this is strictly rumor!) that Christopher Columbus is said to have prayed there before sailing for America. The Connaught Rangers  ("the Devil's Own") was an Irish Regiment of the British Army, formed in 1881 and disbanded in 1922 when Ireland became independent. There are many plaques, honoring dead rangers and their very old banners from different battles are displayed. The stained glass windows in this church are absolutely beautiful. 

 

Our next stop was the Spanish Arch. We had been told an exciting story about a young Irishman who fell in love with a beautiful girl from Spanish Royalty. Her family would not accept him so he returned to Ireland and built the arches to woo her family. FALSE! The arches actually had nothing to do with the Spanish, but it does make a good story! They were built in 1584 to protect the town's quays (pronounced keys) or wharfs! Those Irishmen do love their tales! 

 After the Spanish Arches we stopped at a pub called The Quays for some coffee.  This pub was 400 years old! The entry was a bit dingy, but when you went back inside it was absolutely beautiful with old wood work, arches and leaded glass windows! The waitress told me that there were tales that it had once been a church or nunnery, but she didn't believe it. I do because it was just too beautiful for a pub! 

The firebox inside The Quay. 

As we walked around 2 signs grabbed my attention. First, for you folks from Waller and Hempstead. Now we really know what happened to Cactus Jacks! 

We didn't try it out, but I am sure they have a huge bowl of guacamole on their dinner buffet! 

This sign especially hit home:

The name "Liam", my new grandson, abounds in Ireland! And, I must say that every Liam I meet is a wonderful fella! 

Our next stop was quite a surprise. We had met 3 young girls at Blarney Castle. Remember, the one was afraid of heights? We talked about where we had been, where we were going, etc. They told us about this crystal shop outside of Galway in Moycullen that we MUST go to. We had the time today, so off we went (besides our parking time had way expired!) The name of the shop and factory is Celtic Crystal. Mary, the Managing Director and Designer gave us the tour of the showroom. She started the business in 1972. They do not distribute to any stores. The products can only be purchased there or ordered. Several of her pieces have won awards all over the world. This piece is comprised of 3 pieces and weighs 103 pounds and took the master 26 weeks to complete it. We were fortunate enough to meet this master whose name was Donall Madden,  Gaelic for Daniel. He demonstrated how to make a small candy bowl. Incredible to see it happen! To become a crystal maker, they must first have an outstanding degree in art and design. Then they are accepted for a 5 year apprenticeship. At this point they can cut clear glass only. To cut the colored pieces (red, blue, green or amethyst) they must do 2 more years of an apprenticeship. 

Here is Donall before he begins with just a plain glass bowl. The bowl just has some black lines drawn on it like a grid. He then turns on the grinding wheel, with dripping water and begins to make cuts. He was very sure of himself and the piece began to take shape. 

All of the Celtic Crystal is based on the drawings from the Book of Kells. They tell the history of the Irish people. All the pieces are finished with an Irish rose on the bottom. After the cuts are made with 2 different grinders, then the piece is dipped in acid to complete the product.

The colored pieces are much more rare and are much more difficult to make. They are actually 2 layers of glass, and the cutter must actually cut without being able to see what he is doing. It is so hard on their eyes that they are only allowed to make so many colored pieces a year.This trip has made me appreciate crystal even more. 

After roaming around the city we finally found the Corrib Princess that would take us on a cruise of the River Corrib. It was a nice relaxing trip, something we had not done--relax! We did see some sites up the river. One was pillars from the old rail line that had been destroyed by the Germans for the steel in them. We also saw Galway University, started in 1845, the building of which helped supply jobs for many starving Irishmen during the famine. Now it has over 12,000 students, attending for FREE! American education could learn something from these Irishmen! We saw Jordan Island where a sect of Anti Baptists (not sure I heard the guide correctly on this one!)  once lived. This sect was Cromwellians, so were not well liked by the Irish. We saw Terryland Castle, built in the 1500's and occupied by the Blakes. One story goes that one of the Blakes, Valentine Blake over spent a great deal. A warrant for his arrest was issued. It was law then that you could not be arrested on Sunday, so that was the day that Valentine chose to go out, always returning to his castle (and protection) by midnight. Thus, he was known as the "Cinderella of Galway" Then he found out that if he became a member of Parliament that he could not be made to pay his debts, so that is what he decided to do. The problem was that he could not go out and campaign. Then he discovered another loop hole. As long as he was in a boat he could not be arrested, so guess where he did all his campaigning from! 

And, believe it or not, he WAS elected to Parliament in the late 19th century. Wonder if any of our politicians went into the "business" for that purpose?

We ended the evening eating at KC Blakes, a delightful restaurant. I must give them a plug, or at least their method of cooking steak. Anyone heard of Steak Stones? Fabulous way to cook your meat, and delicious. Here is the web site if anyone is interested! www.steakstones.com  I hope to buy some when I get home! 

Tomorrow we head back to Dublin to catch our plane for home on Wednesday morning. A few stops on the way and then lots of packing, repacking, and organizing to be done tomorrow night. Also have to get our tax refund! As you shop in Ireland, you ask the clerk for the refund form. Then at the airport you will get back part of the tax you have paid. Pretty excited about that but it looks like some paperwork to do! 

With all this, I'll close from the Emerald Isle. We had rain today, lots of cold rain, but at least it waited until after our boat ride. Hope we have good weather tomorrow. I am still looking for that rainbow with the pot of gold....no luck so far! .....d

Just had to include the baby swan! Isn't he precious?

Day 11 - Bunratty Castle, Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, and on to Galway

It has been a whirlwind trip! This Emerald Isle is like technology, the more you learn the more you find that you don't know! There is just so much to see here, so many ruins EVERYWHERE! So much that we will not see on this trip.  Maybe another time!
We were short on sleep today. The bar with a very loud band must have been on the floor right above us last night! Sounded like they were playing in our bathroom--or Toilets as they are called here!
First stop bright and early was to visit Bunratty Castle and Folk Park...very, very cool place to visit!

Bunratty is full of 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestrys, and paintings. Just beautiful!  The site first had a wooden fortress, built in 1251. Then in the late 13th century the lands were granted by King Edward 1st to Thomas de Clare, who built the stone castle in 1425. He drove out all the native Irishmen, who continued to pester him with attacks, especially the O'Briens and MacNamara families! They finally succeeded in overtaking the castle in 1450...That is perseverance! the castle continued to be besieged and one time Admiral Penn, father of Pennsylvania's founder, William Penn was in the castle when this happened. William was reported to be an infant in the castle. Finally the castle was deserted by 1700 and left empty until it was restored in 1960. The castle has 4 towers, each 6 stories tall, and we climbed every single one of them! Whew! Those winding staircases are a claustrophobic's nightmare! But, I made it...but I must confess, I could not make myself go down the steps to the dungeon...too spooky! One absolutely horrible thing did happen at the castle. As we exited, I realized that I no longer had my journal in my hand, the journal that has notes from our entire trip! Slight panic set in. Phil went back to look, but then, you know how a man looks for something. As we were leaving, I was just about to go back in when a man approached me asking if I had lost something. I guess he could see the stress on my face! He had found it and turned it into the gate keepers! Yipee!

Next we spent a bit of time in the Folk Park. So neat! Bunratty Folk Park is a living reconstruction of the homes and environment of Ireland of over a century ago. Rural farmhouses, village shops and streets are recreated and furnished as they would have appeared at that time. We went into several of the establishments...fireplaces going in all...love that peat smell! In one a lady was kneading the dough for fruit scones (thought of you sister Dorothy!) I told her she must have strong fingers...she replied (now this is a bit naughty, so don't read it if you offend easily!) "I don't know, I'll have to give you my man's text number so's you can ask him"! I think I stood there for a minute with my mouth open! She was quite a character, and I thoroughly enjoyed visiting with her.

I thought this picture looked so totally authentic Irish that I had to put it in. Note the stone fences and thatched roof in the background. Did you know that those roofs are about 1-2 feet thick? Amazing!

Now for all you educators, past, present and future! I took some pictures inside the schoolhouse. One teacher would have around 80 students at a time, all ages! So, I do not want to hear any more complaining about class sizes! lol! And I do remember that I had 36 my first year--back in the dark ages.
Wish I had one of these old beautiful desks!

Charming room isn't it? I don't think the teachers here showed up 2 weeks before school started to decorate their classrooms!

On the way to the Cliffs, we decided to grab some lunch in a small town called Ennistimon. MISTAKE, kind of. We had forgotten that it was Sunday and everything was closed! We finally passed a young girl on the sidewalk eating a delicious looking sandwich and she directed us to a local convenience store with the best deli I have ever seen. I had a fruit salad that was out of this world! And, while we were there we ran across the most beautiful old church and cemetery. I told you, there are ruins everywhere!
I do wish we had time to walk around the cemetery! So interesting.
Isn't this tiny purple flower beautiful? It grows on stone fences everywhere!  I took a picture of it last night growing on a stone bridge, then here it was again on a wall in Ennitimon! Just had to get a picture of it!








 Finally we arrived at the Cliff of Moher. At first, I was a bit disappointed because it looked like the cliffs had become totally commercialized, and in a way they have. But when you make that long climb up, all the commercialism falls away to the pure beauty of nature! No description is needed..just enjoy the picts!

The right side of the cliffs.

And now this tiny little path you are NOT supposed to walk on, but of course, we did after crawling over a fence! Please don't tell my Mom. It looks even more dangerous in the picture!

So, those are the cliffs. We took the shore road all the way in to Galway. Did not have seeing the burren on my list, but I am so glad now that we have seen it! The name Burren is from the Irish - "bhoireann" meaning a stony place. It is composed of karstic limestone, the largest area of such in western Europe. It is a very barren area, but lots of botanists, archaeologists and ecologists study the burren. 

The burren has some pretty nice cliffs itself. We had a beautiful day of weather at the cliffs. It was unusually clear and not windy! As soon as we got to the car, the clouds moved in and it began to rain. Guess those Texas skies are following us!
We found the hotel easily in Galway, thanks to the GPS! We are right on Galway Bay, now getting ready to go out and explore. One more day in Galway, and then Tuesday it is back to Dublin for our flight home on Wednesday.
I have loved every minute in the Emerald Isle, such a beautiful, magical place to visit! For now, it is out to dinner and a early evening because of our personal rock concert last night! Hope you are enjoying the blog as much as I am writing it! ...d

Day 10 Dingle Pennisula to Limerick

"A Boy in his car went "beep, beep"!

Cause covering the road 

There were sheep. 

He braked and he went

And for cover he sent

The sheep and their shepherd, Bo-Peep!"

Since we were traveling to Limerick, I thought it would be a good way to start the blog today, with a Limerick. This one happened to be true. In the mid west, buffalo stopped traffic..here in the Emerald Isle, Sheep!

I do believe we got our first taste of real Irish weather today, cloudy, damp, chilly with the wind blowing through you! Bad day to try to see the glorious sites on the Dingle Pennisula! But I did get a few good shots to share. I could tell though that without the rain and fog, it is a beautiful place to see. 

I was surprised to see such beautiful beaches and further surprised to see the Surf Boards! Surf's Up Dude! and these guys...don't know them, didn't talk to them, but their craziness was blog worthy! They had to be freezing out there!! We had on long sleeves, coats, scarfs, hats and were still cold! 

We made what they call the Slea Head circle, stopping at the Irish Famine Cottages.  The more I read here about the Irish Famine, the more I realize how horrible it truly was. The suffering so many endured is unbelievable. The main house was built by the Earl of Cork in the 1840's.  The smaller structures were the peasant cabins inhabited through the Irish Potato Famin from 1845 to 1850, which is when we believe the first McCormicks emigrated to America. Ireland lost 2 million of its population during this time period, either to death or emigration. To get to the cabins we have a bit of a climb up a hill side. I had such an eerie feeling. First of all, for a while we were the only ones there...the wind was whistling around us and the buildings were cold and damp. I could just feel the suffering as mothers watched helplessly their children die, and then most likely died themselves, to be thrown in a common grave. This was a site I will not forget. Main cottage first, peasant cottage following.

 

 

                                                                    

                                                                         
Scenes from the Dingle Pennisula

 40 shades of green in this Emerald Isle!

Awesome views!

We did not get to Limerick in time to tour King John's castle nor St. Mary's Cathedral.  We did walk down the River Shannon to see the outside of the buildings. After a quick lunch/dinner at Burger King, and a short walk around the area we went to the room to blog and rest  up for tomorrow.  I am a bit disappointed in Limerick. The town, or at least the part I have seen is not nearily as charming as the other places we've seen. It is a more modern city and not as well maintained as even Dublin or Killkarney! The city just looks dirty! I hope to drive around a bit tomorrow before we head out to Bunratty Castle so my mind can be changed!
With that I will close from the Emerald Isle for the evening. Early to bed for me!  ....d

day 9 cont....

Be sure and scroll down for the first post of today. Just had one more thing to add. After dinner we went downstairs to a pub to listen to a young Irish lad playing some authentic Irish music.  Here is what we heard: Folsom Prison Blues/Johnny Cash, The Gambler/Kenny Rogers, Mrs. Robinson/Simon & Garfunkle, Daydream Believer/The Monkees, I'll Be Your Baby Tonight/The Hollies, I'm a Believer/The Monkees! Great Tunes, but Irish???

Day 9 Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry was just awe inspiring! So many beautiful sites. We got a very early start, so no tour buses! I took so many photos! The text for today will be short and I'll just post photos (except I forgot to load some before I came downstairs, so I'll post more tomorrow--sorry!) The Ring is a drive around the Iveragh Pennisula. It goes from mountains to beaches with beautiful lakes in between and lovely little villages--truly a spectacular part of the Emerald Isle! A few highlights! Our first stop was at Kells to see the gardens, all 40 acres. Stunning! Pictures will follow. We immediately met the gardener, a bit of an eccentric, the kind of man that probably buys the same kind of socks, shirts and underwear that he has bought for years! But then, I love eccentrics! He put us on the trail, promising that we would not get lost. We ended up spending 2 hours there.  The plants were huge and blooming, just gorgeous. If you are any kind of gardener, put the Kells Gardens on your bucket list...I have never seen anything like them. A few picts from Kells:

The picture of the gate reminds me of the book, "The Secret Garden" that I read as a young girl.  I loved that book, an excellent read for any young dreamer!

Hope you can see the pink, purplish plants covering the side of this mountain. I asked my gardener friend what it was. He said that the bloody stuff was a (blah, blah, blah) also known as a Rhododendron, but it was a highly invasive weed that had been planted over 100 years ago to form a wind break. It was in full bloom and gorgeous! He also said that the last winter here in Ireland had been a once in a lifetime winter, very hard, so many of their plants were damaged. Didn't see too much damage myself. There were beautiful camellias as tall as trees, huge clumps of azalias, ferns that had grown into trees, and a maiden hair fern as tall as me (no short jokes, please!) 

On to the Ring....our next stop was to catch the ferry over to the small, but beautiful island, Valentia. The first town you come to at the ferry landing is Knightstown, built for a group of Knights. It was an extremely charming village, as most are here on the Emerald Isle.

We exited Valentia by Portmagee, then stopped at Waterville for fish and chips. Waterville has a monument dedicated to Charlie Chaplin because he once lived there for a time. More pictures of the scenes around us at Coomakesta Pass, and then a side trip to see Staigue Fort. Many ring forts are on the ring, with Staigue built in the Stone Age. The drive to get there was a bit hairy with a one lane road all the way...I sucked air lots of times as we had to pass another vechicle!! 

Last 2 stops were at Ladies View, so named from the admiration of the view given by Queen Victoria's ladies in waiting during their 1861 visit, and Torc waterfall...well worth the 200 yard climb!

Isn't Torc Falls beautiful? Just like the beautiful pictures I have seen!
I have so many more pictures of the Ring, over 80, but I am tired, Phil is hungry and impatient! So, I will close for tonight from the Emerald Isle! Tomorrow we head towards Limerick with 2 stops, the first to drive the Dingle Pennisula, and the next at Bunratty castle, which stands on the site that was in origin a Viking Trading Camp from 970!  Supposed to be the closest to a real medieval castle we've seen! I cannot believe the treasures that the Emerald Isle still holds for us. 4 more days here and then, Home Sweet Home! out to a pub now--even though it appears to be raining, our first bit since we've been here. Wouldn't you know it, my raincoat is in the car parked somewhere far, far away! Hoping our hotel in Limerick has wifi--false advertising here at the Arbutus! till tomorrow....d

Day 8 Blarney to Killarney

Let me know if my post today is more eloquent than before...I have officially kissed the Blarney Stone! Actually had to kiss it twice because my "helper" got his arm in the way the first time, messing up the photo op, so, another kiss for me! Yep! That is me, bending upside down and backwards...I do believe I am sounding more eloquent already! What a climb it was to the stone....they say 100 steps. Wasn't the steps that bothered me so much, but you are going up an ENCLOSED, narrow, stone circular staircase.  I do mean enclosed! The only thing that kept me going was the young girl that was afraid of heights in front of me! I had to be the brave older woman and show her what real women are made of!
The castle was built 1446 by Cormac MacCarthy. The word "blarney" was created by Queen Elizabeth 1 describing MacCarthy's ability to "fast" talk his way out of a difficult situation!
"There is a stone there,
That whoever kisses,
Oh! he never misses
To grow eloquent"
Actually the castle was very interesting and I do wish we could have spent more time there.

After our visit to Blarney, we drove through the country to Killarney. Beautiful drive. Everyone has flowers planted everywhere! There are these red leafed trees that are gorgeous! We keep asking what they are called, and in true Irish fashion we keep getting different answers! Another interesting tree we see here and there is from Chili, something called a Monkey Tail tree. Finally got a picture today. They are a sort of pine tree, but very interesting. One guide told us they were endangered, not sure about the truth in that!


The weather has been awesome! The Irish are so thrilled with it too. We visited with a gentleman today that told us that this is the first time in 3 years they have had such good weather! They almost never have more than 3 days with no rain. Now, it has not rained where we have been for a week! It is geting a bit cooler now, coats and scarfs for sure!
Can't post much today from the Emerald Isle. Wifi is only available down in the lobby, and it is getting chilly down here!
We are out and about tonight, looking for some good Irish music! I am sure we won't have a bit of trouble finding that. These people do love their music (I am sure that is where the Scott's get it, Mom!) , their parks, their jokes, and their heritage! I am convinced that Ireland is a great place to live--the beautiful Emerald Isle.
Tomorrow we move on to the Ring of Kerry. The sites there are supposed to be completely spectacular! I am very much looking forward to that... By the Way, the driving and navigating is much better today. Thank goodness for that!  Only 5 days left in Ireland...then winging it home! ....d